INSTRUCTIONS AND "BASHING" IDEAS
figures are cast from white Polyurethane Resin. This material can be cut with a
razor saw, a hacksaw, a Dremel cut-off disk, or even
flush-cutting pliers (like Xuron). Sandpaper or a file can
be used to smooth or alter surfaces. When parts are to be
recommend either "Super Glue" (Alpha Cyanoacrylate, ACC) or 5-Minute Epoxy
glue for all assembly. Any gaps remaining
can be filled with an epoxy putty such as Magic Sculpt,
by Aves, or even
generic "epoxy plumber's putty" from a hardware store.
Basic assembly of the figure simply consists of sanding
or scraping away any remaining mold lines, and then gluing
the parts together in the desired positions.To allow for joint movement after
mating surfaces can be center-drilled, and a "press-fit" wireinserted and
glued only on one side of the joint. This way, the head/hands can be
pressed into place, rotated in any direction, or
interchanged with other parts for variety.
All parts should be washed
thoroughly with soap and water just before any paint is
applied, since casting or glue residues or oils from
handling may still be on the surfaces, and may interact the
Resin accepts all kinds of paint. I suggest a light coat of
neutral (gray or beige) primer, to provide a uniform surface
and color base for finish paint. The primed surface will
also help you to see any remaining gaps. I use "rattle-cans"
of (sandable or self-etching) auto-body primer from an Auto
Although the primed resin
will accept most oils or enamels, I use inexpensive craft
acrylic paints, which are ideal for finish painting. They come in a wide range of
colors, and may be further inter-mixed on a pallet to meet
any specific needs.
CAUTION: OVERHEATING RESIN MAY
RESULT IN BURNS, AND CAN RUIN A PART.
Start gently, and only
heat until part is just flexible.
TO SEE AN EXAMPLE OF "FIGURE BASHING" ON FIGURE #!, GO TO
THE "BASH" PAGE !
Changes in the positions of
limbs and even the body are easy with a resin figure. The
easiest is to change the angle of an arm or leg to match a
particular final location or pose.
To make small changes in the position or angle of an elbow,
wrist, fingers, or leg, simply heat the part with a heat gun
or "toaster oven" set at about 150 deg.F. When
moderately heated, the part becomes soft and pliable,
but does not lose it's shape. Test often to find the ideal
flex point. Carefully (using gloves or tools) take
hold of the heated part, bend it (at a joint) to the desired
angle, and hold until cool, or run it under cold water. When cooled,
the part will hold its new shape. This is particularly
useful for bending fingers to better hold a tool or lever.
To change the position of a shoulder, elbow, hip, or knee,
first cut the parts at the joints. Again, a razor saw or
hacksaw may be used. Then, drill and add wires to the joint
(as described above), to allow for posing. If a large angle
change is required, some resin may have to be cut or sanded
away at the joint. Be careful to measure first, and maintain
overall limb lengths or the figure will look "wonky" (not normal). Small calipers are handy for keeping
limbs the correct length.
"wired" limb is in the desired position, glue it in place.
Remaining gaps can be filled with an epoxy putty such as Magic
Sculpt, Epoxy Sculpt by Aves, or even "epoxy plumber's putty". as mentioned
Body Changes: The
pose of the body can also be altered, but remember there is no
single anatomical "joint" here, just a continuous bend of the
spinal column. The "heat
and bend" technique will not work well with the body, because
it is too thick. You can,
however, add a slight rotation or bend at the waist. If you do
this, use the same "drill-wire-glue-fill" procedure described
above. You will notice that any movement at the waist will
leave large gaps and areas where sanding and filling will be